体感西装 Sex And Suits
作者简介安妮·霍兰德是艺术史学家，纽约人文学院研究员。
￥ 280 8.9折 ￥ 315 九五品
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作者Ann L. Hollander
出版社Knopf; First Edition
ISBN9781474250658
出版时间1994-08
印刷时间1994-08
印数1千册
装帧精装
开本16开
纸张铜版纸
页数212页
字数1千字
定价315元
上书时间2023-07-24
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来自一位因其才华和智慧而受人钦佩的艺术史学家，一个关于现代时尚作为性表达的价值的挑衅性论点，以量身定制的西装作为其最强有力的例子。直到18世纪晚期，服装对男人和女人来说都是同样的艳丽，当古典希腊裸体模特的自然简单和低调成为时尚时，但只限于男人的服装。从那以后，服装中明显的性展示就留给了女人——相比之下，它变得既可耻又在审美上低人一等，尽管它种类繁多。Hollander展示了现代女性如何调整男性的剪裁以适应他们更丰富的展示计划，让西装为女性做他们长期以来为男性做的事情:展示他们的性是重要的、严肃的和有趣的，而不是不理智的、浅薄的和危险的。她也向我们展示了男人们——既然女人已经接受了男性风格的所有元素——是如何重新获得他们长期以来视为禁忌的颜色和装饰，而又不放弃女性已经普及的定制西装的强大美感。丰富的信息，令人惊讶，有趣，性和西装给了我们一个新的视角来看待我们长期以来认为理所当然的东西，以及一个思考我们社会的新背景。
From an art historian admired for her brilliance and wit, a provocative argument for the value of modern fashion as sexual expression, with the tailored suit as its strongest example. Dress was equally showy for men and women until the late eighteenth century, when natural simplicity and understatement on the model of the Classical Greek nude became fashionable, but for men's clothes only. After that, obvious sexual display in dress was left to women - and it came to seem both shameful and esthetically inferior by comparison, despite its variety. Hollander shows how modern women adapted men's tailoring to their richer scheme of display, making suits do for women what they had long done for men: show their sexuality to be central, serious and interesting, rather than irrational, shallow and dangerous. She shows us, too, how men - now that women have adopted every element of male style - are recapturing the color and ornament they long found taboo, without giving up the potent beauty of tailored suits, which women have made universal. Richly informed, surprising, entertaining, Sex and Suits gives us a fresh view of what we have long taken for granted, and a new context for thinking about our society.
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