2016年,运动鞋制造商Nike和时装设计师Virgil Abloh联手打造了一个运动鞋系列,庆祝这家总部位于俄勒冈州的公司最具代表性的10款鞋。通过他们的项目The Ten--重塑了Air Jordan 1、Air Max 90、Air Force 1和Air Presto等偶像,他们重振了运动鞋文化。
Icons通过对原型鞋的记录、Abloh给Nike设计师的原始文字信息以及Nike档案中的珍品,追踪Abloh的调查、创作过程。我们发现从Air Jordans上切下的Swooshes用胶带或线重新贴上,Abloh在Air Force 1上用引号标注的典型文字片段,以及被切割成碎片的All Stars。我们在幕后见证Abloh的DIY手法,让Off-WhiteTM c/o Nike系列的每一款鞋款都有自己独特的风格。这本书记录了Abloh的合作工作方式,并重申了印花的力量。在设计上,Nike和Abloh与伦敦著名的设计工作室Zak Group合作。他们共同构思了一本由两部分组成的汇编,即目录和概念工具箱。这本书的第一部分展示了运动鞋的视觉文化,而第二部分的词典则定义了关键的人物、地点、物品、想法、材料和场景,而这个项目正是从这些方面发展起来的。耐克的Nicholas Schonberger、作家Troy Patterson、策展人和历史学家Glenn Adamson以及Virgil Abloh本人的文字将这一合作作品框定在时尚和设计史上。藤原浩的前言则将该项目置于耐克合作者的历史序列中。作者Virgil Abloh出生于伊利诺伊州的Rockford,是一位多栖创意人,他常常拒绝在创意上进行分类。他在艺术、设计和文化领域运作,同时在他所占据的空间里进行宣传、指导和慈善事业。在威斯康星大学麦迪逊分校获得土木工程学位后,他在芝加哥伊利诺伊理工学院(IIT)完成了建筑学硕士学位。在IIT学习包豪斯设计课程的同时,Abloh开始了他更广泛的艺术实践的原则。芝加哥当代艺术博物馆在2019年夏天推出了Abloh作品的大型巡回调查--这是博物馆历史上参加人数最多的展览。目前,Abloh是Off-White™️的首席创意总监和创始人,以及Louis Vuitton的男装艺术总监等。 The Sneaker as (Hyper)Object
Nike and Virgil Abloh reinvigorate 10 icons of sneaker history
In 2016, sportswear manufacturer Nike and fashion designer Virgil Abloh joined forces to create a sneaker collection celebrating 10 of the Oregon-based company’s most iconic shoes. With their project The Ten—which reimagines icons like Air Jordan 1, Air Max 90, Air Force 1, and Air Presto, among others—they reinvigorated sneaker culture. Virgil Abloh’s new designs offer deep insights into engineering ingenuity and burst with cultural cachet. Drawing on the genius of the original shoe using lettering, ironic labels, collage, and sculpting techniques, Abloh plays with language and sculptural elements to construct new meaning. Inspired by the wit of Dadaism, architectural theory, and avant-garde happenings, he analyzes what makes each shoe iconic and deconstructs it into an artistic assemblage, making each shoe into a piece of industrial design, a readymade sculpture, and a wearable all at once.
Icons traces Abloh’s investigative, creative process through documentation of the prototypes, original text messages from Abloh to Nike designers, and treasures from the Nike archives. We find Swooshes sliced away from Air Jordans and reapplied with tape or thread, Abloh’s typical text fragments in quotation marks on Air Force 1, and All Stars cut into pieces. We take a look behind the scenes and witness Abloh’s DIY approach, which gives each model in the Off-WhiteTM c/o Nike collection its own unique touch.
The book documents Abloh’s cooperative way of working and reaffirms the power of print. For its design Nike and Abloh partnered with the acclaimed London-based design studio Zak Group. Together they conceived a two-part compendium, equal parts catalog and conceptual toolbox. The first part of the book presents a visual culture of sneakers while a lexicon in the second part defines the key people, places, objects, ideas, materials, and scenes from which the project grew. Texts by Nike’s Nicholas Schonberger, writer Troy Patterson, curator and historian Glenn Adamson, and Virgil Abloh himself frame the collaborative work within fashion and design history. A foreword by Hiroshi Fujiwara places the project within the historical continuum of Nike collaborators.
The author
Born in Rockford, Illinois, Virgil Abloh is a multi-hyphenate creative that often rejects classification on creativity. He operates in the realms of Art, Design, and Culture in conjunction with advocacy, mentoring, and philanthropy in the spaces he occupies. After earning a degree in Civil Engineering from the University of Wisconsin-Madison, he completed a master’s degree in Architecture at the Illinois Institute of Technology (IIT), Chicago. At IIT, while studying a Bauhaus design curriculum devised by Mies van der Rohe, Abloh began to craft the principles of his broader art practice. The Museum of Contemporary Art Chicago presented a major traveling survey of Abloh’s work in summer 2019—one of the highest attended exhibitions in the museum’s history. Currently, Abloh is the Chief Creative Director and founder of Off-White™️ and Men’s Artistic Director at Louis Vuitton, amongst other endeavors.
Virgil Abloh. Nike. ICONS
Hardcover, Swiss binding, 25.5 x 29.7 cm, 2.33 kg, 352 pages
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